Saint Louis in Senegal is a city of many dimensions which truly expose the cultural and historical vibrancy of the country. One village which inspires us is Guet N’Dar on the long strip of ocean-facing land known as the Langue de Barbarie. Like so many coastal regions, it is under threat by rising seas, having experienced flooding and serious erosion over the last four years. The village is easily reached by walking across the bridge from Saint Louis island, where most visitors stay. Guet N’Dar is home to an important fishing community, with large, colorful, flag-flying boats pulling up on the banks of the Senegal River. It is a frenzied scene late in the morning as baskets of fish are unloaded and brought to the beach. From there, they go to market, are packed in ice, and loaded onto trucks to be shipped elsewhere in Senegal. There is limited fish processing in this part of Senegal, so distribution tends to be of fresh fish in local markets.
Beyond experiencing the hard work and commerce along the fishermen’s beach and fishing market, a walk through the neighborhood of Guet N’Dar allowed us to experience and observe life in the village. Alternatively, horse-drawn carriages will take the visitor along the main streets. While the main street is paved, the side streets are sand. It is here that activity abounds – children playing in the streets, teenagers socializing, men and women walking to their destinations, sheep wandering. As in much of Saint Louis, the buildings here show their age, with little investment in renovation available beyond the mosque. But bright paint, the occasional mural, and images of Muslim mystics brighten the walls. Saint Louis may be well-known for its French influence and artistic community, but this hard-working village merits its own attention.